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Types of Insulation for Log Siding Cabins

The U.S. Department of Energy informs us that at least half of log home energy usage is attributed to heating and cooling. We should take steps to keep this cost under control.
Insulation serves the purposes of helping keep us warm in the winter, cool in the summer, and keeping utility bills low. There are four common types of insulation for log cabin and home use.
- Batt and Roll
- Loose Fill and Blown-In
- Spray Foam and Foam-In-Place
- Reflective and Radiant Barriers
Each of these types of insulation has its pros, cons, installation methods, and costs. The type you should use depends on your climate, the type of cabin structure, and your budget. The following ideas should help you decide which is best for your log cabin.
Batt and Roll Log Cabin Insulation
Batt and roll insulation, also called blanket insulation, has been around for a long time. It is made in pre-cut sections of either fiberglass, rockwool, or flexible fibres. The sections come in standard sizes that lie flat and fit between wall framing, joints, floors, and beams. It is used in:
- Foundation walls
- Unfinished walls
- Unfinished floors
- Unfinished ceilings
This type of insulation is relatively inexpensive and readily available in many stores. It can be purchased with a vinyl, foil, or kraft paper facing that serves as an added air barrier. The cons of this type of insulation are it can irritate eyes, skin, and lungs. It is not as effective as other types when there is a large difference between outside and inside temperatures.
Loose Fill and Blown-In Insulation
This type of insulation is blown into open and hard-to-reach areas such as attic floors, attic walls, existing walls, and new wall cavities. It is generally made from recycled materials like:
- Cellulose
- Fiberglass
- Rockwool
Technicians run a large hose from their truck loaded with insulation to your house. A fan pushes the insulation through the hose into the areas that need filling. This insulation has the pros of least expensive insulation and easy to install. Its cons include can irritate eyes, lungs, and skin, can be too heavy for some ceilings, and can hold moisture
“The U.S. Department of Energy informs us that at least half of log cabin energy usage is attributed to heating and cooling our homes.”
Reflective and Radiant Barrier Insulation
These types of insulation reflect heat from the sun as opposed to absorbing heat. The most common use is in attics to reduce the heat transferred from roofs to indoor surfaces. It is commonly made from these materials:
- Cardboard
- Foil-faced kraft paper
- Plastic film
- Polyethylene bubbles
An important pro of reflective and radiant barrier insulation is its cost-effectiveness in hotter climates compared to colder climates. It is also great for wrapping pipes and ductwork and it does not compress or deteriorate. Its cons show it cannot be used as the only insulation in cold climates and dirt and dust can build up on the surface.
Spray Foam and Foam Board
Spray foam insulation is a plastic compound that flows as a gel out of a foam gun and tank. It soon hardens and becomes a solid mass that adheres to wall boards. Foam board comes in sheets of various thicknesses and is cut into the correct size pieces for placement. It is fast and easy to install but not as effective as spray foam. It is moisture-resistant and mid-priced.
Spray foam creates a multi-layer barrier that blocks outside air and noise from entering your home. It is one of the most effective types, and high-quality foam has a 35% higher R-value than most other insulations. It is effective for placing in these areas:
- New construction walls
- Around electrical obstructions
- Around plumbing obstructions
- In attics and under floors
- Around existing insulation
Spray foam is the most expensive type of insulation, and it can leak through unsealed joints and openings. Rigid foam board must be cut for installation around pipes and wiring. The cuts and joints must be sealed to maintain air-tight. Next, you should know more about insulation’s importance and its R-values.
The Importance of R-Value in Insulation
To obtain the greatest benefit from insulation, you should install it under floors, in all walls, and above the ceilings. The R-value measures how well it does its job – the higher numbers mean more insulating qualities. The U.S. Department of Energy recommends R-values for these areas:
CLIMATE ZONE |
UNINSULATED ATTIC |
3-4 INCHES OF EXISTING ATTIC INSULATION |
UNINSULATED FLOOR |
UNINSULATED WOOD-FRAME WALL |
INSULATED WOOD FRAME WALL |
1 |
R30–R49 |
R19–R38 |
R13 |
R13 or R0 + R10 CI* |
N/A |
2 |
R49–R60 |
R38–R49 |
R13 |
R13 or R0 + R10 CI |
N/A |
3 |
R49–R60 |
R38–R49 |
R19 |
R20 or R13 + R5 CI or R0 + R15 CI |
Add R5 CI |
4 EXCEPT MARINE |
R60 |
R49 |
R19 |
R20 + R5 CI or R13 + R10 CI or R0 + R15 CI |
Add R10 CI |
4 MARINE AND 5 |
R60 |
R49 |
R30 |
R20 + R5 CI or R13 + R10 CI or R0 + R15 CI |
Add R10 CI |
6 |
R60 |
R49 |
R30 |
R20 + R5 CI or R13 + R10 CI or R0 + R20 CI |
Add R10 CI |
7 AND 8 |
R60 |
R49 |
R38 |
R20 + R5 CI or R13 + R10 CI or R0 + R20 CI |
Add R10 CI |
Note: In the table above, CI stands for "continuous insulation" that is applied to the exterior of the wall assembly just inside the cladding. We hope this comparison between the types of insulation proves helpful in your selection.